Bitaxe Gamma Turbo & power connector

Hi there !

I wanna build a Bitaxe Gamma Turbo (with 2 BM1370).
After getting the files for ordering the PCB and the list of materials (BOM), I’ve noticed that the power connector isn’t found in Digikey website :

  • J1 (with the reference XT30PW-M) which is the connector for the power.

This one seems to be a yellow connector that fits with a power unit with a XT30 connector ?

  1. Why this is no more a barrel jack connector for the power connexion ?
  2. For this board, with two BM1370 and a predictible overclocking of it, does a XT30 is enough or should I move to XT60 connector ?
  3. Is it better to have a power unit like a portable computer one (black, solid, no opening) or like a desktop computer PSU (small, with a power button, and opening that let the air goes in) ?
  4. Whatever I choose, does I need to have a new power unit, or may I adapt an old one with the good connector, maybe like a 65W HP power unit that may be 20 years old ?

Hey Guepi and welcome to the build! Good eye on the BOM — and the short version is that everything you’re seeing is correct and intentional. The connector change all comes back to one thing: the Gamma Turbo runs on 12V, not 5V like the single-chip Bitaxe boards. Once you know that, your four questions mostly answer themselves.

1. Why an XT30 instead of a barrel jack?

Two reasons, both tied to the dual-chip design. First, the GT moved from a 5V input to a 12V input. Second, it pulls a lot more current — stock draw is around 43W, and the official supply for it is rated 12.4V / 10A (124W) to leave headroom. A small 5.5×2.1mm barrel jack is really only happy up to ~5A; push sustained higher current through one and you get heating, voltage drop, and eventually a loose, high-resistance (or arcing) connection. The XT30 comes from the RC/drone world, where it’s designed for exactly this: low resistance, a positive locking fit that won’t vibrate loose, and proper high-current handling.

The part itself (Amass XT30PW-M) is just the board-mount, male version of the XT30 — the “PW” is the PCB-mount body and the “-M” is male, so your power cable will end in a female XT30. Digikey doesn’t always stock the PCB-mount Amass variant, but it’s a totally standard part — any RC/hobby shop, Amazon, AliExpress, or an Amass distributor will have it. Just make sure you get the PCB-mount version (with the legs/pads), not the wire solder-cup version.

2. Is XT30 enough, or should I go XT60?

XT30 is plenty — no need to change. Even the most conservative rating for an XT30 is ~15A continuous (30A peak), and the better-tested figures are much higher with decent wire. At 12V, the official 124W supply is only ~10A, and even an aggressive overclock keeps you comfortably under the XT30’s rating. So you’re nowhere near its limit.

Also worth knowing: the PCB is laid out specifically for the XT30 footprint, so swapping to an XT60 isn’t a drop-in change anyway

3. Sealed brick vs. desktop ATX-style PSU?

For a single GT, a good sealed 12V brick is the cleaner choice: quiet, compact, nothing to configure, and it sits on the desk.

4. Can I reuse an old supply, like a 20-year-old 65W HP unit?

This is the one to be careful with — please check the label before connecting anything. Two problems with that HP brick:

  • Voltage: old HP laptop adapters are almost always 18.5V or 19V, not 12V. The GT expects 12V. Feeding ~19V into a 12V board risks frying it. So unless the label literally says 12V DC, don’t use it, no matter how easy it’d be to fit an XT30.

  • Wattage: even if it were 12V, 65W ≈ 5.4A at 12V. Stock draw is already ~43W, which leaves almost nothing for the overclocking you’re planning. The official supply is 124W for exactly that reason.

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Wouah !
Thank you @WantClue for your complete answer with all the answers clearly explained.

For the old computer power unit, yes it’s 18.5 V.
I guess I could have changed the values of C1 (33 uF) and C2 (10 uF) on the power schema in order to transform the 18.5 V into a 12V.

But since the overclocking will be difficult, I’d prefer to stay on “recommanded” power unit.

We also needed a physically backwards incompatible power connector with the move to 12V so I don’t smoke all my old 5V bitaxes :sweat_smile:

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